A Wine Sojourn Through Sifnos and Beyond
ATHENS – In the heart of the Cyclades, amidst the azure waters of the Aegean Sea, lies Sifnos—an island that narrates a tale of unparalleled beauty and profound history. This tranquil Greek haven is celebrated for its golden sandy beaches, traditional Cycladic architecture, and exquisite culinary delights. Here, they embark on a distinctive journey through Greece’s viniculture, where tradition seamlessly intertwines with innovation.
Sifnos epitomizes the authentic Greek experience: winding, picturesque alleys, pristine white-washed houses festooned with vibrant bougainvillea, all bathed in an ambiance deeply resonant with tranquility. Yet, beneath its surface charms, Sifnos beckons with an even richer allure. The island seamlessly guides visitors through the intricate tapestry of Greece’s vinicultural legacy, unveiling a myriad of Greek wines eager for discovery.
With roots stretching back over 4000 years, Greek winemaking stands as one of the world’s most ancient. Celebrated for its varied terroir and native grape varieties, the Greek wine sector has witnessed a renaissance in recent decades. Here, the past meets the present, with rejuvenated ancient vineyards embracing contemporary winemaking methods, all the while paying homage to enduring traditions.
Across Sifnos, taverns and eateries offer patrons a taste of Greece’s oenological richness. Complement your dish with Assyrtiko, a flagship white wine birthed from the volcanic terrains of Santorini, lauded for its pronounced mineral nuances and crisp acidity. Alternatively, Moschofilero from the Peloponnese might tantalize, with its rosy hues and aromatic dance of spice and rose petals.
For those with a penchant for reds, Greece’s Agiorgitiko promises a sensory delight: deep ruby pours redolent with notes of blackberry, plum, and an occasional spicy undertone. Equally captivating is the robust Xinomavro, reminiscent of Italy’s esteemed Barolo due to its pronounced acidity and tannin profile. These wines, intricate in their flavor profiles from red fruits to tomato hints, mature gracefully with time.
While Sifnos may not be renowned as a major wine producer, its pivotal position within the Cyclades affords visitors a unique opportunity to savor a plethora of Greek wines, many crafted on neighboring isles. In Sifnos, wine transcends being merely a beverage—it embodies a cultural expedition, charting history and geography with each tantalizing sip.
Upon setting foot in Sifnos, our welcoming toast was with the ‘Lost Bay White,’ a harmonious blend of Moschofilero and Roditis. We relished this introduction at the quaint Lost Bay Cocktail Bar Restaurant in Platys Gialos. The wine greeted us with its luminous white-yellow hue, playfully tinged with hints of green. Its aromatic complexity unfurled a bouquet of fresh florals, punctuated by the allure of crushed blossoms and a surprising whisper of avocado. The wine danced on our palates, unveiling citrus notes embraced by subtle nuances of jasmine and mint. Its enduring acidity promised a crisp and lingering finale.
Our subsequent day, spent basking under the late-afternoon sun at the scenic Faros beach, brought forth an unexpected delight. My girlfriend’s keen eye caught a gentleman capturing a waiter pouring a rosé into a glass. Driven by curiosity, I approached, seeking permission to immortalize the moment through my phone. What ensued was a deep-dive conversation with the restaurateur about the very wine in question.
As I returned to my reclined relaxation, a waiter gracefully approached, presenting us with two glasses of Lenga Pink from the distinguished Avantis Estate in Santorini. This was a kind gesture from Apostolos Tzivas, the Restaurant Manager of Alyelo bar-restaurant, and a true testament to the legendary Greek hospitality. Sipping the wine was a journey in itself. Crafted from Mavrokoudoura and Gewürztraminer grapes, it wooed us instantly with its delicate salmon hue, and a fragrant symphony of pink roses, sweet grapes, and citrus undertones. Its taste profile combined a dry, yet subtly sweet essence, enriched by layers of tart red berries, red pepper, and a hint of spice, harmoniously balanced by a measured acidity. The wine’s finish was both enduring and gratifying.
Charmed by its essence, we couldn’t resist ordering a bottle. It proved to be the perfect companion to our seafood feast, accentuating our enjoyment, especially as the setting sun bathed the azure sea, its colors echoing the wine’s shades against the vast canvas of the horizon.
On our third day, we journeyed to the heart of Kastro Village on Sifnos Island, where we stumbled upon Loggia. This establishment is the creative endeavor of three music aficionados: Nontas, Orestis, and Nikos. What was once a humble grill tavern has transformed into an enchanting wine bar, boasting a collection of over 100 Greek wine labels, with 12 available by the glass. The atmosphere, serenaded by vinyl records and punctuated by moonlit sea vistas, effortlessly complements the range of organic and biodynamic wines on offer. A memorable experience awaits here, from the warmth of the staff to the meticulously curated wine selection. This cliffside jewel is not to be missed.
Before bidding adieu to Sifnos, it’s imperative to detour to a traditional tavern in Vathi and indulge in a glass of local Retsina. Our tavern of choice, which could be reached by a few stone steps that descended directly from the beach, cradled by the gentle lapping of the sea, was nothing short of breathtaking. Retsina, known for its distinctive pine-infused flavor, is a nod to ancient preservation methods that employed Aleppo pine resin. It’s primarily crafted from grapes like Savatiano, Roditis, and Assyrtiko, resulting in a unique taste that harmonizes beautifully with Mediterranean dishes. While the resinous profile of Retsina can be polarizing, contemporary vintners are rejuvenating its reputation. By seamlessly blending tradition with avant-garde techniques, they’re infusing renewed vigor into this wine, sparking global curiosity. Retsina captures the very essence of Greece, offering a unique chapter in the broader narrative of Greek wines.
Sifnos, with its rich heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and alluring culinary scene, presents an unparalleled setting to delve into the universe of Greek wines. This enchanting island beckons you to bask in its warm hospitality, relish its unpretentious joys, and savor the age-old flavors of Greek wines that distill the essence of Greece’s remarkable vinicultural narrative.
As we journeyed back home, we took a brief sojourn in Athens for a night. Oh, what a radiant and pulsating city! In the heart of this ancient metropolis, we raised a toast to the legendary Greek gods. Clasped in our hands was a glass of Akakies rosé from Kir Yianni – a delightful revelation. This effervescent wine spotlights the intrinsic character of the indigenous Xinomavro grape. Boasting an intense mousse and a bright cherry hue, its pronounced aromas of ripe strawberries and cherries wafted to our senses. An elegant acidity lent freshness, which harmonized beautifully with the subtle sweetness, crafting a wine that was both vibrant and impeccably balanced.
Until our paths cross again in the land of myths and legends, I leave you with a heartfelt Greek farewell: ‘Τα λέμε σύντομα στην Ελλάδα!’ (Ta léme síntoma stin Elláda!) – See you soon in Greece!
